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June 14th Issue 55

From the President,

Fellow Decoupeurs

Here we are once again just a couple of weeks away from our Meeting Date. Not much to report again this time; however I hope all those of you who intend to exhibit at the RNA Show have registered. Even yours truly has for the first time.

I wrote to Judith Madden confirming our invite to have her as our Guest Speaker at the AGM in August, and she most graciously accepted.

Judith has requested that we give her some guidelines about her presentation; how long we would like her to speak, any ideas we may have, and do we wish her to bring some completed works and discuss techniques. I will raise these issues at our June meeting so if you wouldn’t mind just thinking about them a little so we can come up with some direction to give her.

Hope you and yours are all well and looking forward to seeing you once again on 14 June.

Regards Carol

O money. money. I am not necessarily one of those who think you holy,
But I often stop to wonder how you can go out so fast, when you come in so slowly.

Apologies to Ogden Nash

Boy, Life takes a long time to live!

Barbara Chapple's Australian Wildflower Vase

(Barbara Chapple) - 2008

Barbara Chapple's  Australian Wildflower Vase Preparation - Materials:- Three sided Bisque Vase; Gesso; Sponge; 240 sandpaper. If necessary sand off any rough or uneven surfaces. Apply 2 or 3 coats of gesso with sponge. Allow to dry and re-sand. Wipe off residue with damp sponge.

Design - The "twisted" appearance of the larger base, narrow neck and angled triangled top suggested a floral "climbing" line following "twist" of vase. Images in blue and green tones were sought to position on a green to yellow/cream background.

Background - Materials:- Acrylic Artists paints (white, sky blue, cadmium yellow, yellow light hansa, yellow oxide); brushes and sponges; Sealer (Liquitex Gloss Medium and Varnish.

  1. Mix a pale cream with white, the 2 yellows and a very small amount of yellow oxide and apply to outside of vase.
  2. When dry upturn vase and sponge blue onto bottom of vase and up the sides for a short distance.  Then sponge the 2 yellows back into the blue to create a green.
  3. With white and the 2 yellows on your palette create various shades of cream to be sponged onto vase with lighter shades descending into almost a pure yellow into the green. You may need to redo some areas to achieve your desired result.
  4. Inside the throat of the vase apply a mixture of the 2 yellows adding a little white if preferred.
Decorated Areas - Materials:- Images were sourced from "Key Guide to Australian Wildflowers" by Leonard Cronin. Selected pages illustrating various violets, blue bells and orchids were scanned and printed. Chosen images were roughly cut out and adhered to a sheet which was laser copied (at 100%, 85%,and 70%); glue (3 parts Clag and 1 part Aquadhere, and GMV); Brushes and Sponges; Scissors and Scalpel; Blu-tac.
  1. Seal photocopies with GMV (optional).
  2. Cut out flowers, leaves and stalks - design is similar on each side but decreasing in size, as it "climbs" following the contour of the vase.
  3. Position on vase with blu-tac until satisfied with design, and then glue on, adhering one leaf or flower at a time by either applying glue to vase or with smaller pieces onto back of image. Press onto surface gently but firmly with slightly dampened flat sponge. Remove excess glue and any air bubbles by gently rolling a clean brush handle or pencil over image, and then wipe off any excess glue with clean damp sponge.
  4. Paint a piece of paper with green paint (similar to bottom of vase). Make a rough template of triangular rim of vase and cut from green piece of paper - it may be easier to do this in sections and carefully join when gluing onto rim.
  5. When all images are in place seal with several coats of GMV.
Finishing - Materials:- Have constructed a heavy base in which is securely inserted a thin piece of dowel onto which vase can be placed in upturned position; Aqualac; good brush to apply; Sandpapers (320,400,600,800,1200 grades);Micromesh; soft lint-free cloth.
  1. With vase inverted on dowel apply Aqualac reversing brush strokes with each coat, removing drips from rim with damp sponge shortly after painting. 2 coats may be applied each day.  When 20 or more coats have been applied leave to cure for at least one week, in which time inside throat of vase can be lacquered.
  2. Now an interim sand can be done using 320grade sandpaper to remove major irregularities, ceasing before any images are damaged (in which case touch up with paint and seal ).
  3. Then continue with 20 to 30 more coats of Aqualac.
  4. Allow a week to cure before sanding progressively through sandpaper grades until no shiny areas remain.  If they do more lacquer may be required and the process repeated.
  5. Polish with Micromesh as directed in kit.

Queensland Decoupage Guild Committee
President:Carol Carpendale
Vice president:    Val English
Treasurer:Glenda Lloyd
Secretary:Barbara Chapple & Di Loxton

If anyone has an interesting article which could be used in Snippets, Please contact Val English on 54 421522
or by emailing

Next meeting..... 14th June.
We will be having a "hands on" Cloisonné workshop. Images and gold paper and a previously painted square will be supplied.

Meetings are held at the Chermside Library rooms starting at 9 am. The Library is located in Kittyhawk drive, off Hamilton Rd., Chermside ( near the R.S.L.Club).
Unfortunately Allan Press cannot be with us for this meeting, but he has organised lots of interesting flowers to share and the already painted squares for the base.

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Fantasy Flowers

using Cloisonné technique.

Organised by Allan Press

Have fun creating your Fantasy Flower piece on a painted square (this will be provided). The petal images (which are also provided) are already laser cut and can be assembled with many variations in design and colour. There will be sample pictures for guidance if you are not feeling inspired. The piece will be able to be varnished or poured as desired in your own time.

You will be required to bring with you the following:

Brushes for gluing
Liquitex GMV
Rubber roller (if you have one... should be enough to share).
Ice cream container for water
Sponges for mopping up
SCISSORS for cutting the Cloisonné.
Some Gladwrap or Baking Paper for use with the roller would also be useful.

Cloisonné in Decoupage.

The real Cloisonné is made by forming a design with fine gold wire, which is soldered along the outline, which then act as colour separators. Powdered glass is painted into the spaces & then fired. This is done several times to achieve the correct colour & height required. The whole thing is then ground evenly & polished. The exposed metal is electroplated with a thin film of gold to prevent corrosion & to give a pleasing appearance.

This is a very potted description, but you will understand that good looking work in Decoupage will depend on clean, fine cutting. Of course, each colour should be separated from the next to be really correct, but pleasant work can be done by just using the gold around the outline.

The first thing to do is to select your design. It will need to be fairly simple. Some Art Deco designs are quite adaptable. Cut out the pieces you will need, then glue them on to a sheet of gold paper.

When this is dry, you will cut them out again, leaving, if possible, no more than 2mm of gold showing. (This is the fine gold wire)

Now they are ready to use on your article. Have fun!

Pine Ceramics - large range of bisqueware for decoupage, glazed and fired, choice of colours for insides - phone 07 3205 1462 Active Abrasives - Liquitex acrylic paints, Gesso, gloss medium and varnish, micro-mesh, single sanding pads, velour sheets & blocks, wet & dry sheets, sea sponges, brushes, scissors, glue, rollers, books, etc - phone 07 3396 4457

Hints & Tips

How do I go about thinning acrylics?

Do not thin acrylics with more than 25% water. That will spread the resin too thinly & interfere with the formation of a stable film. By adding an Acrylic Medium, rather than water, it helps to maintain colour brilliance & ensures the paint film will remain stable.

What is the Shelf Life of Acrylic Paints?

You can expect a 5 - 7 year shelf life from Liquitex products, provided they are stored properly, at room temperature, kept tightly capped & free from contaminants. High temperatures, freezing the use of tap water, dirty brushes & painting tools will adversely affect the shelf life of paint.

What Does the Word "Hue" Mean When it is Included in the Colour Name?

Some colours have a "Hue" designation at the end of their names, as in Cadmium Red Medium Hue. When used in this way, "Hue"is not a colour attribute but rather a replacement or alternative for a target colour. The "Hue" colours may sometimes yield higher intensities at a lower cost for pigments that are either unavailable, expensive or "fugitive" (not light fast) or may pose possible health hazards.

Can I re-use an acrylic painted canvas?

Yes. It can be painted over with acrylic or oil paint.

The above handy hints were taken from the Liquitex Acrylic Book

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More ideas from the Liquitex Techniques section of the Internet found at

Obtaining Straight Lines

To obtain a perfectly straight line, place 3m Scotch Tape 311 firmly on the work. Smooth down the edges tightly. Apply the paint, going slightly over the tape. Remove the tape before the paint dries fully, by slowly lifting up in the opposite direction from the way it was placed. You will get a perfectly straight line every time.
-- Ginger Cook Tomball TX

Removing Masking Tape

When removing 3m Scotch Tape 311 or masking tape from your art work, try to pull the tape at a 90% angle, pulling it close to the surface (not straight up in the air). This helps reduce the possibility of pulling off the paint with the tape.
-- Ojen Lambson Baltimore MD

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